This joycon tester checks Nintendo Joy-Con on a computer, one at a time or as a pair. Press any button and the drawing lights up the face buttons, the d-pad buttons, L, R, ZL, ZR, Minus, Plus, Home, Capture and both stick clicks, while the scopes follow each stick and the tabs measure drift and rumble. In Chrome and Edge on Windows, Mac, Linux and ChromeOS, the extras panel also reads each Joy-Con's battery level, its gyroscope and accelerometer, and the SL and SR buttons on the rail, which normal gamepad support often misses.
How to test Joy-Con on a PC
- Slide the Joy-Con off the Switch. Hold the small round sync button on its rail, between SL and SR, until the green lights run back and forth.
- Add it in your computer's Bluetooth settings. It appears as Joy-Con (L) or Joy-Con (R). Repeat for the other side.
- Press any button. Each Joy-Con gets a numbered key above the drawing, and its light flashes when you press something.
- Press every button and both sticks down. Each part turns green once it works.
- Run the Stick drift test with the Joy-Con lying flat on a table.
- In Chrome or Edge, press Connect for extras, choose a Joy-Con, and use Add the other Joy-Con for the second one.
Battery, motion and the rail buttons
The extras panel reads each Joy-Con directly:
- Battery in rough steps: Full, Medium, Low, Critical or Empty, and whether it is charging.
- Motion sensors: lay the Joy-Con flat, press Zero at rest, then turn it. Gyro readings should jump while it moves and settle back near 0 when it stops. For a phone or tablet sensor instead, use the gyroscope test online.
- SL and SR: press each rail button and its chip lights up. These buttons let you hold one Joy-Con sideways as a small controller.
- Player lights: tap the four lights to switch them on the Joy-Con itself.
- Reports per second: about 66 for a Joy-Con, one every 15 ms, a quick check that the Bluetooth link is steady.
What the results mean
| Readout | Normal result | Look into it when |
|---|---|---|
| Stick distance at rest | 0.00 to 0.05 | Above 0.10 with nothing touching it |
| ZL and ZR | Jump from 0% to 100% | They flicker while held |
| Gyro at rest after zeroing | Close to 0°/s | Keeps reading over 5°/s while still |
| Tilt | About 1 g toward the floor | Every axis stays at 0 |
| Battery | Full or Medium after charging | Low within an hour of a full charge |
| SL and SR | Each chip lights once | One never lights |
Joy-Con drift
Joy-Con sticks are known for drift: dust gets under the stick cover and the contacts inside wear. Run the drift test with the Joy-Con lying still. If the offset is above 0.10, calibrate first on a Switch under System Settings > Controllers and Sensors > Calibrate Control Sticks, then test again here. If the drift returns, the stick needs cleaning or replacing. Joy-Con sticks connect with a ribbon cable rather than solder, so a replacement takes a tri-wing screwdriver, a Phillips screwdriver and some patience. The joycon drift guide walks through it, and the stick drift tester explains the deadzone numbers.
A Joy-Con will not pair or keeps dropping
- Charge it on the Switch first. A Joy-Con with a flat battery shows no lights when you press sync.
- Pair it by Bluetooth. Browsers do not always see Joy-Con through the charging grip, even when the grip is plugged into the computer.
- Keep it close. Joy-Con have small antennas, and early left Joy-Con were known for dropping out at a distance or when covered by your hand.
- If a nearby Switch keeps taking it back, put the Switch in airplane mode while you test.
A rail button or a shoulder button does not work
SL and SR sit on the rail and get worn by the strap and the console's slide. If one never lights in the extras panel, clean the rail and press it firmly. ZL and ZR each sit on a small ribbon cable with its own switch, so a dead ZL or ZR is often a loose plug or a worn switch. The cable is sold as a spare part with the switch fitted. For the Pro Controller, the switch pro controller tester runs the same checks.
What this joycon test cannot check
- The IR camera and NFC reader in the right Joy-Con. Only a Switch can use them.
- HD rumble textures. Browsers send simple rumble, so the vibration tab shows that the motor works, not every effect.
- Joy-Con attached to the Switch. The page sees a Joy-Con only when it is paired with this computer or phone.
Joy-Con tester questions
Can I test Joy-Con on a PC?
Yes. Hold the small sync button on the rail of a Joy-Con until its lights run, add it in your computer's Bluetooth settings, open this page and press a button. Pair the second Joy-Con the same way. No Switch console is needed.
How do I test the Joy-Con gyro?
Open this page in Chrome or Edge on a computer, press Connect for extras and choose the Joy-Con. Lay it flat, press Zero at rest, then turn and tilt it. The gyro bars show degrees per second and the bubble follows the tilt. Readings that keep moving while it lies still mean the motion sensor needs calibrating.
Why does each Joy-Con show as a separate controller?
Each Joy-Con is its own Bluetooth device, so your computer sees two controllers. Some browsers join a left and right pair into one, others list them separately. The page tests whichever it is given, and the drawing shows both halves.
Can I test Joy-Con drift without a Switch?
Yes. Pair the Joy-Con with a computer or an Android phone, open the Stick drift tab, put the Joy-Con down and press Start. A resting offset above 0.10 is drift. See the joycon drift guide for calibration, cleaning and repair.
Will Nintendo fix Joy-Con drift for free?
In many countries Nintendo has repaired Joy-Con stick problems at no charge, in some cases outside the normal warranty. The terms differ by region and change over time, so check Nintendo's support site for your country before paying for a third party repair. Copy your results from this page to describe the fault.